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40 Days and 40 Nights at Sea


THANK YOU!

When it was first suggested in May of this year that I could be part of a racing crew sailing a 68ft yacht from the UK to Rio de Janeiro in Brazil, via France, I had no idea of the scale of the adventure that I was about to embark on or the amount of hard work it would take to get there. To be part of the team I needed to raise £7,000 in 3 months to cover my training, food, gear and other expenses that made up the berth fee of a Clipper Ventures boat. I immediately started to search for sponsorship and was overwhelmed at the positive responses that my emails and letters provoked. This report is in part a ‘thank you’ letter to my greatest supporters:  International Paints, The Rebecca Mcnie Foundation, Andy Smailes Web Design Co, Quest College, Balance Physiotherapy and ProV02 Fitness, as well as my friends and family. Without your help I would not have been able to participate in this race.

Joining the Team:

The training provided by Clipper Ventures for my race to Brazil began in June and took place over four intense weeks on the water throughout the summer. Apart from teaching the basics of sail trim and race tactics the crew were also instructed in safety procedures: how to react if someone fell overboard or how to make a mayday call using the VHF Radio. After my first week of training it was Crew Allocation Day, when all of the competitors found out which team they would be sailing with during the race. I became part of the Uniquely Singapore crew. Our boat, sponsored by Keppel Corporation with Singapore Tourism Board, sported a distinctive Merlion graphic on the hull that meant our boat was highly visible on the water.  With Australian skipper, Jim Dobie, to guide us through the race the team pulled together quickly and in-depth plans were made to make living arrangements on board at sea as comfortable for the crew as possible. This included fitting nets into the bulkhead ceiling for extra storage, waterproof bean bags for the crew to sit on deck,  and a waterproof daily ‘goodie bag’ of biscuits and crisps to keep us going for the entire trip!

Uniquely  Singapore departing Gosport.

September 13th: The Race Starts

The start of the race crept up very quickly once my training had been completed. Last minute maintenance work was undertaken – including applying Micron Optima anti-foul to the entire fleet courtesy of International Paints, who were by now sponsoring the fleet through my involvement with the race – and then it was off to Hull for the start of the Clipper 09-10 Round the World Race.

In Hull the fleet was greeted by thousands of spectators and hordes of journalists and reporters waiting on the docks to wave us off. With a special fly-by display by the Red Arrows and the Mayor of Hull firing the canon the Clipper 09-10 race got underway. Many of the crews were astounded by the level of interest that people were taking in our team. A BBC helicopter hovered above the fleet and news teams from ITN and Sky trained their cameras on us as we made our way out of the Humber and in to the North Sea for our first sprint race down to La Rochelle in France.

Hull – La Rochelle in 4 days

The first two days at sea were key to Uniquely Singapore. Not all of us had sailed together in training before the race, so not only were we rediscovering our sea legs but we were getting to know each other and learning to work together as an effective team. When our outhaul snapped during the first night we had to put our heads together to come up with the solution to our problem. I went up on to the boom the following day and using a length of spectre rope rigged up a temporary outhaul so that we could at least sail at full speed again to try and make up some of the ground that we had lost in the night when it had first broken.  With only three days left until our arrival in La Rochelle, and with the wind increasing, we decided to leave my temporary rigging in place until we got to port before attempting to make a bigger repair and to focus instead on consolidating our position.

Fixing the outhaul in the North Sea

The North Sea treated us well, providing downwind kite conditions for much of the way down the Channel and then swinging to the South West as we reached the coast of France. With a fast broad reach in to the finish, we were accompanied by dolphins swimming in the phosphorous as we crossed the line at 0328am on the morning of September 17th in 7th place.

Renewed Determination: La Rochelle to Rio de Janeiro:

The crew started the second race on to Brazil with a renewed determination not to let gear failure hold us back a second time. Having identified several areas of our sailing skills that needed working on during our team talk in La Rochelle we felt confident that the next race would see us on the podium. Sadly this was not to be! After a light-wind start we experienced our first spinnaker wrap on the second night out of La Rochelle. This happens when the light airs causes the kite to collapse and instead of bearing away to fill it again the helm steered a course to windward, causing the kite to wrap itself tightly around the inner forestay – so tightly in fact that we had to sail off course for 3 hours whilst one of the crew went up the mast to painstakingly unwind the 18m kite by hand.  Once we had it back down we found that there was a large tear from head to foot on both sides of the kite which needed fixing. Having worked for 2 years as a sail-maker I was able to help the team mend the tear but it took another 12 hours before we were able to get it back up and flying again by which time we had slipped from 5th to 8th place.

We put our kite woes behind us and focussed on speed as we headed down towards the ‘Canary Cage’, an area of notorious light winds around the Canary Islands. Our tactical decision was to head west, outside of the islands where we thought we would find more wind. Although by the time we got there the weather forecast was showing that the wind was dropping rapidly. We made our way through the area as quickly as possible and began seeing more wildlife as we headed further south on our westerly course. Dolphins and flying fish became a common sight, with one particularly adventurous flying fish flying down the hatchway in to the crew accommodation from where it was hastily rescued from and thrown back overboard!

The Doldrums – and Our Second Kite Wrap!

Once we had past the Cape Verde Islands we began to get in to the Doldrums territory. Jim began plotting the positions of the ITCZ (Inter Tropical Convergence Zone or Doldrums) as each new weather report came in. The ITCZ moves north and south depending on the pressure systems that are in the area and we wanted to avoid getting in to a system that began tracking south with us as that would mean we could get stuck in the Doldrums for many days. It was around this time that we got our second kite wrap. ‘No problem’, we thought, ‘this will be solved in a couple of hours’…3 days later we were still looking at the kite stuck around the forestay and wondering how to get it down! It was so tightly wrapped that no matter which way you untwisted it, it would re-twist itself further down the wire. Eventually Jim made the unusual call to remove the entire inner forestay from the mast. This was no small undertaking 2,000 miles from land and put our rigging in a compromised position as the mast was weakened whilst the inner forestay was removed. We waited for a light wind morning and then did the entire operation in one smooth, rehearsed action. Within 2 hours the kite was back on the deck and the wire was being refitted. To our surprise the spinnaker did not have a single tear in it and we were able to put it straight back up and to get going again.

The kite before the wrap…

Sadly the three days attempting to get the kite down by more standard means had resulted in Uniquely Singapore sliding down in to 9th place but with the kite back in action we were determined to make up ground. Throughout this race, no matter how difficult things got we were very good at pinpointing the problem during our daily crew meetings and then trying to think of ways to work through them: whether that was teaching the less experienced crew how to helm with a kite up or reading the boat-speed numbers out loud so that we could see when we were slowing down, as a team we never gave up trying to work our way back up the fleet.

The kite after the wrap!

The Home Straight

After the second kite wrap, and having fought our way through the Doldrums which seemed determined to drive us slowly mad and which lasted for 6 days, we popped out the other side back in to the Trade Winds. At last we were on the home straight! With the race course shortened so that the finish was now off the coast near Recife our final finishing position was 8th, as we managed to snatch back a position in the final days of racing, leaving Edinburgh Inspiring Capital and California more than 100 miles behind us. After 40 days and 40 nights at sea since leaving Hull the entire crew were ready to make landfall. Whilst we were disappointed at our final finishing position for leg 1 of this 10 month race, it was still a wonderful experience of life at sea and a lesson in how to overcome the inevitable problems that will occur when you are thousands of miles from land. In these situations we had only each other and our own problem solving abilities to rely on. It was a good reminder at times when we all craved some personal space that it was not worth arguing amongst ourselves as personality problems quickly affected the overall team performance. In my role as Watch Leader on this race I learnt about man-management and the importance of putting your strongest players in the key positions to allow them to help teach the less-experienced members of the team as quickly as possible.

Teamwork

I would like to thank everyone who was involved in making my dream of competing in the Clipper 09-10 Round the World Yacht Race a reality, particularly The Rebecca Mcnie Foundation whose generous last minute funding boost meant the difference between competing and missing out. If you would like to continue following the progress of Uniquely Singapore you can do so at www.clipperroundtheworld.com I would like to extend my particular thanks to Andy Smailes also for his hard work on my own website: www.globalsail.org.uk

Goodbye to the Northern Hemisphere!

We’ve done it! Uniquely Singapore crossed the Equator 2 days ago and we are well and truely on our way in the trade winds now. To mark our crossing the crew were summoned to ‘Neptune’s Court’ to justify our ‘reasons for existence’ to the Skipper and to Neptune. The reasons ranged from the silly (”I’m a lousy swimmer so please let me stay on the

boat!”) to the more serious and emotional thanks for letting the crew get this far safely. The moment was then marked with a shot of Benromach whiskey all round (and one for the sea-gods) and a slice of fruit cake from Jen.

Today we are shooting south at a rate of 200 miles per day with the winds on the nose, so the boat is now bouncing upwind. After 6 days stuck in the Doldrums with a perfectly flat boat it is quite a shock to the system to be at 45 degrees again and quite an effort to move around the boat. Competitions are being held to see who can come up with the most creative way of getting into the top bunks in the crew accommodation area as they are now much higher and at a difficult angle to get in to. Most crew are favouring the ‘run and jump’ method, trusting the boat to heel at the right moment and scoop them in to their beds at the moment!

we are approaching the last 1,000 miles of this race but are not slowing up the pace yet. we intend to run up to and through the line; all is well on the Merlion.

It is always darkest just before dawn

well, it has been a trialling couple of days on Uniquely Singapore. The winds have been light and shifty, often not where the weather forecasts have predicted they will be, which made navigating for our Skipper difficult indeed. Our boat speed has been languishing in the low 6-7 kts whilst the crew rotated all of the sails in frustration: yankee 1 to windseeker, to light wind kite and back again but nothing seemed to be working.

Yesterday Jim (skip) called an ‘emergency meeting’ during our crew happy hour. His motivational speeches have become known as ‘Jim’s Sunday Sermons’ and this time he pulled it out of the bag by reassuring us that with over 3,000 miles still to go this race is far from over. We may be at the back of the fleet at the moment but if we want to be at the front, if we want that podium position badly enough, there is still time to get it. We are currently tracking down towards the Cap Verde islands and the wind should start to build soon. With renewed enthusiasm after Jim’s chat the crew have regained their focus. In the navigation station we have our target speeds up on the computer, together with a funtion that calculates the percentage of our speed compared to our target.

There are now regular calls of ” we are only at 88%, pull it together!”

or shrieks of joy when we surf down a wave and “110%! 115%! Go, go, go!”

Pinned above the computer in the nav station someone has written on a post-it note: “It is always darkest just BEFORE dawn”. Uniquely Singapore has been struggling in the dark hours for the past couple of days but the mood on board is that dawn in just about to break for us and the merlion is ready to climb back up the fleet to the podium position she is hungry for.

The Canary Islands – Still

I am writing this during my ‘grave yard’ shift for the night. I am on deck from 2am to 7am tonight, but as the winds are so light behind the Canary Islands the crew are scattered all over the boat doing their own things as much as sailing the boat.

we have been stuck in light air conditions for three days now and it is proving very frustrating. Everyone is keen to push on and start making some headway on the 3,000+ miles left to go to Rio but when you can only make on average 11 miles each night it seems like we might be out here forever! a lengthy wish list is being compiled of the things that each of us would like to do first upon reaching Brazil: taking a shower and having a fresh, cold orange juice being the favourites today.

With the ITCZ (Inter Tropical Convergence Zone, otherwise known as the

Doldrums) still to overcome we are settling down for a few more days of frustrated racing – time to start whistling for the wind.

Lauren

Question: how do you wash your hair when you are on a swaying boat with no running fresh water?

The answer is, with difficulty! Yesterday was my day on ‘Mother Watch’.

This means that for one day you are excused from your deck jobs and instead are responsible for feeding the crew and keeping the boat clean.

This is no easy task when you have 20 people to feed and all of the kitchen equipment is liable to fly across the galley without warning! I was on mother watch with Jen and after we had finished serving breakfast (porridge with dried fruits and honey) we took the chance to have our first proper showers for a week. There is an unlimited supply of salt water to the basins in the heads so we found that the best way to shower was to wash in salt water, including dipping our hair in it, before having a fresh water rinse down from a bucket next to the sink. It was quite difficult to balance whilst juggling soap and keeping your clothes off the wet floor but we got there and wow, does it feel great to be clean again!

We also washed some of the clothes for the crew, boiling up water in the galley and then putting them in a dry bag with washing powder on the bow for an hour or so. This let the motion of the boat do the washing for us and afterwards all that was needed was a quick rinse before hanging the kit out to dry. Uniquely Singapore looked like a pirate galleon with all of her crews’ socks and T-shirts pegged on the guard wires, but at least we all smell better now!

Lauren x

Spinnaker Nightmares

Unqiuely Singapore seems to be labouring under a spinnaker curse over the last two days as we have had constant major repairs to make to our light weight kite. On Wednesday evening we had been sailing along with the kite up happily for a few hours when Watch B accidentally wrapped it around the inner forestay. Cue 3 hours of unwinding and 4 trips up the mast to sort out twisted halyards before the crew managed to free it again. Sadly this was not to be the end of our troubles with the kite as a few short hours later an enormous rip appeared, severing the kite in two pieces horizontally before stripping itself away from the tapes all the way from the head to the foot. We ran forward onto the bow and dragged the kite out of the waves but it was obvious to all that this would be a BIG repair job! The repair, which took 12 hours, was carried out over Thursday and there was much cheering and happiness when the final tape was stitched back on by Rachel, Sally and myself at about 8pm last night.

After a celebratory bean stew and apple pie we turned in for the night, looking forward to getting going again with the kite this morning.

HOWEVER, the trouble does not end there! This morning we popped the kite back up the mast, it unfurled beautifully and for a brief moment it seemed that Uniquely Singapore was back in business. This illusion was then shattered as a new rip appeared, this time all along the foot of the spinnaker and we had to drag it out of the sea once more. So, state of play now, on Friday morning we are once again back at the sewing machine with a big old patch to put on our poor kite!. *sigh!*

Lauren x

Sunny Days – And Spinnaker Wraps

Day 2 has been sunny, hot and just starting to get slightly humid on board Uniquely Singapore as we make our way out of the Bay of Biscay, heading past Bilbao. The focus of our crew ‘happy hour’ (when we are all on deck together for one hour over lunch) was to construct a rudimentary air scoop system so that those off watch could open the forward hatch and get some air moving through the crew accommodation area which is already getting very stuffy. Rachel and I did this by taking the spare lee cloth off the lower hospital bunk, turning it upside down and lashing it to the jack stays on the deck so that no direct sunlight can shine down into the crew area and accidentally sun burn someone sleeping below. We then went to test the air scoop theory ourselves and went for a couple of hours of hard earned sleep. We have been getting back into the rythmn of boat life quickly, but night watches soon start to catch up with you and sleeping during the day is very easy.

We woke up at 5pm to find that the spinnaker had collapsed and that we had got our first ‘wrap’ – the head of the kite was wound so tightly around the inner forestay that it took us 3 hours to unwind it, putting two small holes in it in the process and having to knife one halyard that was too tightly trapped in the kite to get it out in one piece.

Luckily we managed to get the kite down, repaired and back up again before the sun went down but we have all been on edge for this last watch, rushing to the bow each time the kite collapses to check that it is not starting to knot itself up again. The challenge now will be to sail fast through the night and to make up on any ground lost during our

3 hour battle on the bow!

Lauren x

First Night on Uniquely Singapore.

Well, we are off again, after a very light wind start that saw the fleet drift out of La Rochelle at 10am local time this morning. Our sailing instructions were minimal and simply read: Start, La Rochelle, Finish, Rio de Janerio.

We spent the morning sitting on the leeward rail, changing from windseeker to the light weight spinnaker and back again but as I write this we are doing a healthy 8kts in 4th position. I have just finished my 5 hour watch for the night and now have until 4am to sleep, eat and catch up with everyone on the email. It has been a nice way to ease in to such a long race and with the other clipper boat lights on the horizon the crew have stayed motivated, trimming every 10 minutes using the new egg-timer that we bought in La Rochelle to remind us to go forward and check the trim of the sails!

First dinner at sea was steak pie and mash potatoe with roasted veggies

- we eat like kings on this boat thanks to some cunning victualling by Heston and his team. I went in to the rope locker this afternoon to get some extra sheets and was faced with a wall of dried meats, salamis and hams that they bought in France; every possible spot of the boat has been utilised for this next leg, and most of it seems to have been given over to food storage. The chances of us losing weight on this race seem slim at the moment!

I am off to my bunk now, time to peel off the fantastic mid-layers from my sponsors at International Paints which I think I may be living in for the next week, and get some kip.

Thanks for all your emails, keep them coming!

Lauren x

Uniquery Singapore ready for next Challenge!

On the boom fixing the outhaul

On the boom fixing the outhaul

saying goodbye in Hull, an emotional day for all involved

saying goodbye in Hull, an emotional day for all involved

Navigation on board on our way down the channel

Navigation on board on our way down the channel

Pumping out the bilges, a constant activity!

Pumping out the bilges, a constant activity!

After a few tears and a fairly emotional send off from Hull the team on Uniquely Singapore were happy to get out to sea and get stuck into the first race that saw the fleet racing down the English Channel to La Rochelle in the Bay of Biscay. The weather gods were certainly smiling on us this first week as we had a fair breeze and no rain all the way from the start to the finish. On board Singapore the crew all quickly settled into the watch routine: There are 19 crew members on board, organised into two groups by the Skipper. These two groups work in shifts, 5 hours at night and 3 hours during the day in rotation. This means that each watch has only one night watch in every 24 hours to contend with and, so far, no one is feeling the affects of sleep deprivation at all!

After the start the team settled into a mid fleet position which was maintained over the entire first day, however we had our first breakage after dark fell when the outhaul snapped. This meant that we had to sail with a reefed mainsail over night until it could be fixed during daylight hours and as a result we slid towards the back of the fleet, finding ourselves in 9th at one point. The next day I went out on the boom and with help from the guys on watch managed to tie a temporary strop around the clew of the mainsail so that we could have a full sail once more. It was quite nice being out at the end of the boom as we were going past the White Cliffs of Dover at the time and there was a great view from my elevated position! With a full mainsail up Uniquely Singapore was back in the race and the crew/s full attention was given over to catching up the California and Edinburgh teams who were just over the horizon. The wind direction was a consistent North Easterly for the entire race and this made for some great surfing conditions coming in to La Rochelle. With 12 miles to the finish, having overtaken Team California and the Qing Dao Team who were struggling with a halyard failure, we saw Edinburgh just ahead of us. With another competitor so close our killer instincts suddenly surfaced and there was some very determined driving and focussed trimming in the last few hours that paid off dividends as we managed to scoop a 7th place finish!  All of the crew were happy that we had managed to pull back from our early gear failure, however having now had 4 days in La Rochelle to fix the boat and prepare ourselves for the next leg the mood on board is of determination to be more competitive in the coming days and to fight for a podium finish in Rio. To this end we have been patching, splicing and reorganising the boat with all of our attention being on speed: how can we make the boat lighter and faster? The other boats in the Clipper fleet will need to keep their eyes open in the next race, Uniquely Singapore has a score to settle!

24 Hours to the Start!

This week in Hull has been a very busy one as the team on Uniquely Singapore have been working around the clock to finish all of the little jobs necessary to get our boat ready to race. New running rigging has been added and three of our team have spent 2 days surrounded by spectre and fids, splicing new halyards and strops together – not without a certain amount of nervous giggling, as if their splices were to fail during the race we could potentially loose a sail over the side! For crew who have never sailed before this week has been a period of intense learning, being taught new skills which must then immediately be put into practise. Particularly with something as daunting as splicing this was no mean feat to get all of the running rigging ready in such a short space of time.

For myself I have been helping out in the temporary ’sail-loft’ set up by Hyde Sails in a nearby office block. Together with my fellow team members, Shaun and Nicole, we have repaired and strengthened the main sail after the battering it took during the delivery to Hull, as well as marking up our new spinnakers.

The whole of Hull marina has been turned into a ‘fleet village’ for the week with banners, music and crowds of spectators helping to fan the excited atmosphere. With each boat flying their team colours and each crew proudly decked out in their team kit, the Clipper fleet is looking exceptionally good and are now straining at the bite to start.

We will leave the dock tomorrow lunch time and sail out in to the Humber River in formation before starting the race at midday. My next email update will therefore be coming to you from somewhere in the English Channel – I am hugely excited that this adventure which I have been working towards for 6 months is now, finally, about to start!

Thank you for all of your support and I look forward to emailing you from the boat :)

Lauren x